Winter RV Battery Storage

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The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging.

Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they’re charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.

A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the

stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD.

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101

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Ozone Generator Buying Guide

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If you’re a homeowner and your home has recently suffered water damage, smoke damage, mold infestation, or the dreaded “smell of death” from an expired rodent in a crawl space, then you’ve probably read that an ozone generator might just be the answer to your problems. However, with so many different types of ozone machines on the market, how is one to decipher between fact, fiction, and pure unadulterated BS? I have a few tips that will help you avoid getting ripped off and help you make a wise ozone generator buying decision.

The first thing you have to realize is that the ozone generator industry as a whole is not regulated by any government agency. More than half of the so called ozone generator manufacturers are nothing but Internet opportunists trying to cash in on a high priced, somewhat in demand product. These unscrupulous vendors make their overpriced ozone machines in their own garages, set-up a website that makes all kinds of outrageous claims as to the output capabilities of their ozone machines, then advertise their website in the Search Engines. A sure fire way to weed out a few of these vendors is to do a Google search of their business address then use the “street view” feature by dragging and dropping the “little man icon” onto the street right in front of their business address. If you see a residential home, you might want to steer clear of that vendor. Why? It’s easy to shut down your operations when you’re doing business from home. When you invest in a business location, it shows you’re in it for the long haul and it’s harder to walk away from a “brink and mortar” location than it is from a home run business. Why should you care that the vendor is in business for the long haul? Because ozone generators are prone to fail due to the very corrosive nature of ozone and the damaging effects it has on the metal components within switches, timers, relays, etc. Same goes for eBay vendors who buy a lot of ozone machines without also investing in replacement parts. When their supply runs out, they’re out of the ozone business, and you’re left with an expensive door stop when your machine fails in due time.

Once you find an ozone machine that tickles your fancy and you’re ready to invest your hard earned money, the next question one must ask themselves is “How do I know if this machine really puts out as much ozone as the vendor claims? Ozone generator manufacturers don’t have to validate the ozone machines they sell to ensure they are producing the amount of ozone being claimed. I’ve seen some vendors claim 16,000 to 20,000 milligrams per hour yet when we tested those machines in our shop with our ozone meter, they produced 3000-5000 mg/h. That’s quite a big difference between what is actually being produced and what is being claimed. How then can you make sure the ozone generator you purchase is actually producing the amount of ozone being advertised? Simple! Ask the vendor the following questions in an e-mail (future fodder for a 100% money back should you test the machine and find the information provided was incorrect)

QUESTION #1. How Many Volts is the Power Supply! An ozone generator creates ozone by creating an electrical spark that splits oxygen in the air. In order to accomplish this feat, you have to create a high voltage electrical spark. A simple rule I’ve observed in the lab and well recognized in the ozone industry is that a 3000 volt transformer can produce around 3000 mg/h of ozone per hour when attached to a high voltage ozone element or six or more MICA plates at 40% humidity or less. Each Mica plate can produce a maximum of about 400 milligrams of ozone per hour IF it is properly installed due to the weak electrical spark it is capable of generating from the wire mesh. If you own a MICA plate ozone generator, view the plate in the dark. It won’t light up very bright, very dimly as a matter of fact. The types of ozone plates that turn bright purple in the dark are called “High Voltage Ozone Elements” and they can produce around 3000-4000 mgh per plate when fed with a 3000-4000 volt power transformer. These types of plates glow purple, almost like UV lamp, in the dark. They create a very strong electrical spark that is much more efficient at producing ozone vs the old fashioned MICA plates. As a matter of fact a 4000 volt transformer and ozone element only uses about 35 watts of electricity, now that’s efficient! Therefore, Tip #1 is to ask the vendor to e-mail you in writing the exact voltage, amps, and watts used by their power transformers and how many and which type of ozone plates their machines use. If a vendor claims for instance their machine produces 16 to 20 thousand milligrams of ozone per hour but their machine only uses one 5000 volt transformer, then you’ll things just don’t add up.

QUESTION #2. What type of ozone element does the ozone machine use? Believe it or not, some vendors will try and convince you that the ozone elements in their machines are “permanent” and will last forever. Folks, there’s no such thing as a permanent ozone plate! If used in 90-100% humidity, even the expensive high voltage ozone plates will only last 20-40 hours. Ozone generators are not made to be used in 90% plus humidity! In humid areas, you must run the air conditioning or a dehumidifier in order to perform a shock treatment. Tip #2 therefore is to think twice before buying an ozone generator from a vendor who doesn’t offer replacement ozone plates or makes a machine that utilizes “MICA” plates.

Once you have those answers in writing, save the e-mail in case you need to use it to obtain a refund in the future. When you receive your ozone generator, have a local electrician friend of the family (or hire someone) to open your ozone generator and give it the once over and test the strength (in volts) of the power transformer. If you discover the stated voltage doesn’t match the advertised voltage, ask for a refund. After all, what you’re buying when you buy an ozone generator are high voltage power transformers, not a slick sales pitch! The honest vendors will clearly state their machines specifications on their websites and via e-mail if asked. They’ll also provide you with a picture of the inside of their units and disclose the amount of plates, type used, etc. You should be weary of vendors who hold this information close to the vest or refuse to go on the record with this information.

Now you know what questions to ask an ozone machine vendor before making a purchase. I want to close out this “Ozone Generator Buying Guide” by giving you a few tips on how to save money on your purchase:

Tip #1. Ask the vendor if they sell any used units or any “bare bones” ozone generators. Many ozone generator vendors will have spare parts on hand from returned or fixed units they can sell “on the down low” for a mere pittance of the retail price. Others might be able to sell you a “bare bones ozone generator” without any of the bells and whistles you can easily use to make your own ozone generator, especially if you’re the “do-it-yourself” type. You might also want to check eBay to see if anyone is selling high voltage power transformers in the 3000-12,000 volt range or high voltage ozone elements that can be easily attached to the power transformer. Some ozone vendors want $1000 or more for their ozone generators, however, the fact of the matter is that ozone machines are pretty basic electronic components and they shouldn’t cost as much as a used car, especially if you buy the main components and “Do It Yourself.”

Tip #2. Don’t buy an ozone generator with too many “bells and whistles”. Ozone as I’ve already mentioned is very corrosive over time to all metals except stainless steel. Unfortunately, all electronic switches, relays, etc needs to use regular metal in order to be conduce electricity. What we have therefore is a dilemma. The solution? Don’t buy an ozone generator with all the bells and whistles! This would include an internal timer, ozone output dial (to turn the ozone up and down), etc. Just realize that if you do buy an ozone generator with these parts that eventually the ozone is going to destroy those parts and all it takes to shut down an ozone generator is to have one of the electrical components fail. If you want a timer, buy an external timer for $5 at Lowe’s. If you want to be able to turn the ozone output up and down, buy a “repeat cycle timer” that can turn your ozone generator on for a few seconds ever x amount of minutes, and repeat that cycle indefinitely. Both of those items can be connected via an extension cord in another room to your ozone generator. Less is more when it comes to longevity in shock treatment ozone generators.

Tip #3. Don’t over do it when performing shock treatments! There is a reason the trained professionals that administer ozone shock treatments command thousands of dollars to perform shock treatments; they know what they’re doing and how to safely and effectively perform a shock treatment without leaving your home smelling like ozone for weeks after the shock treatment! Besides being an ozone generator manufacturer, I also run a restoration business that employs ozone in some of our work. For mold remediation, ozone only plays a small role in riding the house of toxic mold for instance. Sheet rock has to be taken down and replaced, super high CFM air cleaners make sure the mold, when disturbed, isn’t re-distributed throughout the structure. Wet wood has to be dried. Leaky pipes have to be fixed, etc etc. Yes, shock levels of ozone will kill the mold, but that’s just a small part of mold remediation, regardless of what some ozone vendors might advertise to help hawk their units.

The main mistake I see homeowners make when doing a shock treatment is not properly removing or covering all petroleum based products such as carpet foam, sofa cushions, etc. We use Kevlar to cover carpets and foam filled sofas, mattresses, etc. Kevlar is ozone resistant and will keep the foam from interacting with the ozone. Ozone will oxidize foam and rubber and cause a chemical-ozone smell that can linger for weeks. So tip #3 is to not over do it with an ozone shock treatment! One or two hour shock treatments in furniture filled homes is advisable. You might have to perform several such shock treatments, but it’s better to be safe than sorry when shocking a furniture filled home. Some vendors tell their clients to just turn the ozone generator on and let it run for a few days. I strongly advise against that practice.

Tip #4. When you are ready to buy, call the vendor and order over the phone. Odds are at some point in time your ozone generator is going to need service. I don’t know about you but I hate buying something on-line, having it break down, then not being able to speak with a live person for support without having to wait on hold for 30 minutes or worse yet, not being able to speak to a live person at all then not having my e-mails answered! You can nip this type of situation in the bud by first calling. If you can’t easily get through and get a well informed live person to answer the phone to place your order, then consider buying elsewhere. This bit of advice goes for making any large ticket item purchase on the Internet.

If you want to save money and make a wise investment, ask the right questions before you buy your ozone generator and also consider incorporating some of my tip suggestions as well. The more you shop around, the more time you spend doing some Internet research, and most importantly, the more time you spend e-mailing and talk directly with the vendor, the more likely you are to make a wise investment and end up with a great ozone machine that lasts you a lifetime.

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Orange Thunder 30 TH30 Head

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The Orange Thunder 30 TH30 Head is one versatile beast, with 30 watt, 15 watt, and 7.5 watt settings. Output is configurable in three different ways; by halving the plate voltage to the tubes with the output switch, by using only two of the four El84’s in the Orange TH30 Head ’s tube power section, or both. Using both methods gets you 7.5 watts, perfect for practice or the studio. Clean and Dirty channels give the Orange TH30 Head a wide variety of tones at all volumes, from sparkling clean to smooth overdrive to the chunky, tube-saturated grind Orange amps are known for. proguitarshop.com

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Wall Switch Covers – Small Item, Large Impact

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If there is one thing that every home needs, it is switch plate covers. They are very essential home accessories and their function cannot be ignored. The covers are placed over the switch’s circuitry to protect the user from possible electric shocks. They are positioned in optimum places around the house’s walls usually at arms length from the door or the end of the hallway. They can add a whimsical feel to the room or an antiqued sophisticated look to complete the ambience of the room.

These light protectors were strictly utilitarian items. With simple outlet covers for protection, most home owners don’t think much about them. With their bland covered faces they merely fulfilled their functions. For decor purposes they left much to be desired. Now artists are thinking outside the box and are applying their unique design talent to an over looked object. The wall switch plate cover is becoming a decorative piece of art.

Switch Plate designs incorporate images from nature to culture, history to contemporary and abstraction to representation. Whatever switch plate you choose will allow your personality to be reflected throughout your home.

Most people are use to the white or cream colors that come standard in many homes. With just a simple change, that is also light on your pocket book, you can alter the entire look of the room. Installation which consists of a couple of screws and a screw driver will be accomplished in a breeze and will give you a new spin on your style. Rather then separating your room with universal plates you can accessorize your walls with color. This eliminates unnecessary blotches of discoloration by matching your covers to an existing paint color or design.

Your surroundings may be well decorated, but look around you and you may notice your switch plate covers worn out, scratched, discolored and an eye sore to the viewer. What you yearn to see is a unique accent that compliments their space. You can make this happen with this vibrant alternative and its dramatic impact. The possibilities are endless and are only limited to your imagination.

Most switch plate covers are individually hand crafted using a classic decoupage technique and sealed with a smooth finish to prevent scratching and cracking. Decoupage is the art of decorating an object by gluing a design onto a medium and finishing it for permanence and durability. There are several different methods of finishing this product.

1. Lacquer: It can crack or chip easily if exposed to low temperatures

2. Polymer Coating: The finish cures by a chemical reaction in witch the liquid finish hardens to a solid material which will last for many years.

3. Acrylic Coating: Easy to clean, but scratches easily. It will last a long time if not exposed to sunlight.

4. Polyurethane Coating: Provides a clear coating but yellows with age.

5. Laminate: It is sandwiched between layers of plastic and sealed with heat and pressure. Easy to clean and will last for many years.

Wall switch plate covers are available in many material, textures, colors, patterns, sizes and designs. To give you an idea, I will name a few themes such as Seasonal, holiday, animals, teens, trains, vegetables, fruit, drinks, country, angels, antiqued, lighthouses and gardens. This is just the tip of the iceberg that you will encounter through your search.

Some of the materials that these plates come in are ceramic, porcelain, pewter, brass, bronze, wood, plastic, stone and glass. Most are washable, durable, fire retardant and have ultra violet protection.

If you still are unable to find just the right switch cover, you can submit your own ideas or send a picture to have one custom made. Some companies can even match a piece of material or your granite counter top. For further creativity, you can match the switch plate with your outlet covers. You will certainly have a conversation piece with this decorative statement.

These switch plate covers are a very small item with a very large impact. They are whispers of art that add character in unexpected places. Just as you might be drawn to a sparkling diamond, these unique covers can have that same effect on the viewer.

So dazzle, delight and indulge. You can find the perfect accent to fit with you decor. The only difficult part for this venture is deciding what is right for you and your personality.

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Light-face CD Cover

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In response to Steve in Marin video on recycling old CDs nice idea Steve, I had fun making this!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqrkWZyQ_uc&hl=en

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